Anger

Anger

 “Bull shot”

……………

The waiter places it down in front of you, a pile of bloody meat topped with a vibrant green quenelle of ice cream on an eerily clinical white tile splattered with red juice. A second later he places the accompaniment alongside – a syringe complete with hypodermic needle.

……………

 

 Of all of the courses that we had to design and execute ‘anger’ was by far the easiest to translate into food. There are so many emotions attached to this particular vice that make sense in a culinary language as well – heat, aggression, passion. The dish in its final form was steak tartare with a horseradish and wasabi ripple ice cream, a syringe of lime and tabasco, all washed down with a mini Bloody Mary.

This dish was probably one which evolved the least during the development stage of the event. We started with the idea of deconstructing a Bloody Mary (though maybe a drink more associated with remorse than anger) and you can still see the essence of that in the final dish. It finished up more of a ‘Bull Shot’, a Bloody Mary made with beef consommé.

Anger is such a raw emotion and one so easily sparked that serving it with a steak tartare seemed to make perfect sense. The presentation really stemmed from trying to do something fun with the dish and making the guests stab their food with a syringe seemed to match its theme pretty neatly. With the benefit of hindsight we should have predicted what might happen if you give some tipsy people sharp objects. Luckily only two people managed to stab themselves and both these were very minor. Alarmingly, both of them are studying medicine and will soon be qualified to wield needles professionally.

The ice cream here was particularly delicious, it is really bizarre to eat something which is hot (chilli-wise) but is also frozen. The guests seemed to really enjoy it and it adds a great, fun new dimension to the dish. We used an unholy amount of horseradish and wasabi to give it a real kick but do yours to taste, the freezing process takes the edge off the heat though so try to compensate for that.

It’s probably the easiest dish to make from any course on the menu and the steak tartare is absolutely brilliant. If you’ve managed to find this blog then I don’t need to go through the whole buy-the-best-beef thing; just get stuck in.

This recipe makes enough for about 25 so obviously divide it down to the amount that you need.

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Recipe:

Steak Tartare

  • 1.5kg fillet of beef
  • 3 shallots
  • 1 bunch spring onions
  • 1 tbsp capers
  • 2 gherkins
  • Glug of sesame oil
  • 1 tbsp each black and white sesame seeds

Finely dice shallot, spring onion, gherkin and caper

Finely dice beef

Mix and season to taste

Mould 1.5cm deep in ring mould and make a little depression in top with back of spoon

Chill

Sauce:

Blend lime juice and plenty ofTabasco

Draw into syringes

Ice Cream:

  • 500ml milk
  • 125g caster sugar
  • 10 free-range egg yolks
  • 500g crème fraîche
  • fresh horseradish, grated, to taste
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • wasabi powder, to taste

Combine the milk, sugar and egg yolks in a bowl and cook over a pan of boiling water, whisking contnuously until the mix has doubled in volume

Remove from the heat and continue to whisk until cool

Fold in 400g of the crème fraîche and horseradish, to taste and season

Churn until nearly frozen

Add wasabi powder mixed with the rest of the crème fraîche to form ripples

Freeze

Miniature bloody mary:

Make Bloody Mary up in jug

Pour into shotglasses and garnish with slivers of celery

Serve:

Carefully place a portion of beef onto a chilled tile

Put a small quenelle of ice cream in the depression in the beef

Place syringe diagonally across the corner of the tile

Drip a couple of drops of Tabasco around outside of the tile

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Comments
One Response to “Anger”
  1. Fascinating! I hope to be able to try making this! Thanks for sharing! Bravo!

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